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Description & Tech Specs
Curved stem: The curved stem allows for greater clearance over irregularities in the rock surface and allows the “beak” to be buried deeper in bomber placements; it also allows for greater hooking potential when used in clean placements.
Improved hooking action: The “hooking action” of the Tomahawk is superior to that of the Pecker and Birdbeak, due to the longer, curved stem and forward positioning of the cable hole. This greater hooking action helps the Tomahawk to stick better when hand placed and when used as more of a hook than a piton.
Multiple hammering surfaces: In addition to the primary hammering surface used to drive the Tomahawk into a crack (b.), there are four hammering surfaces that can be used to clean the piece – two for upward hammering (c. and e.), one for downward hammering (a.), and one for upward hammering, which through rotation, levers the blade outward (d.).
Larger cable hole: The cable hole allows up to 5/32″ cable (#4 head); Tomahawks are originally fitted with a small loop of 1/8″ cable (#3 head). The small loop is designed to maximize climbers’ reach.
Top and bottom tie-off holes: The two tie-off holes on the #1 and #2 sizes will accept a single strand of 9/16″ supertape webbing or a bight (strand doubled-over) of 1/2″ tie-off webbing. The two tie-off holes on the #3 size will accept a bight of 9/16” supertape webbing and the top hole on the #3 size will accept a carabiner, for horizontal placements or for racking purposes.
The top hole can be used to tie-off the Tomahawk when it is placed in a horizontal crack. Although the Tomahawk is not designed for horizontal cracks, it can be used as a last resort when you have no knifeblades or RURPs left on the rack, or when such pitons are too wide. For shallow, tipped-out horizontal placements, the blade of the Tomahawk can be tied-off to reduce leverage (instead of using the hole).
The top hole can also be used to assist in cleaning the Tomahawk if it is fixed or stubborn during removal, with the GENTLE use of a funkness device and a 3/16” quick-link or loop of tie-off webbing. If the Tomahawk is hand-placed and becomes wedged when weighted, such that a simple pull with the fingers doesn’t pop it loose, a “pull-tab” made of a length of 1/2″ tie-off webbing can be used to give the piece a good yank outward and slightly upward. Thread a piece of webbing through the top hole and tie an overhand knot towards the end to form a pull-tab.
The bottom hole can be used to tie-off the Tomahawk if it is fixed and the cable is missing, or if the original cable has been damaged/worn out/frayed and must be removed, yet cannot readily be replaced.
Left and right versions: Tomahawks are also available in left (red) and right (blue) versions, for use in corners. The upper bend enables better hammer contact with the primary hammering surface (b.) during placement, and the lower bend provides clearance for the cable to prevent cable damage against the rock. The left version (red) will fit left-facing corners with a straight-in crack and right-facing corners with a crack that is parallel to the face. The right version (blue) will fit right-facing corners with a straight-in crack and left-facing corners with a crack that is parallel to the face.
Finish: A water-displacing dry film oil is applied to Tomahawks during manufacturing. If a surface becomes rusty, remove rust with Scotch-Brite or a fine abrasive pad. Remove any moisture from surfaces and oil with a good water-displacing product (WD-40 or equivalent) when not in use. Wipe off excess oil with a clean, dry cloth. Store in a dry place.
Shape: Use a file to remove any burrs that result from heavy use. DO NOT use a grinder or belt sander; this will undo the heat-treating.
Made in the U.S.A.